A few weekends ago I went to Lauren's house situated on a farm in
Donegal in the Republic. (By the way, in Northern Ireland you either live in "The North" or "The Republic," meaning the Republic of Ireland. The two countries are actually quite different from what I gather. ) We left Friday night, and two hours later I crawled into my electric blanket-warmed bed for a long deep sleep. I woke up Saturday morning to a brightly slanted sun magnifying itself in the dew on the hillside. The earth was still. Lauren had brought back to life the fire started the night before in her tiny, black wood-burning stove, and I made us our favorite egg-in-the-bread-hole breakfast complete with local eggs and bread from the early morning market. Even though we spent the majority of the weekend curled up by the fire reading scientific journal articles for class, we did manage to get out and explore a little.
Lauren's family has been on their land for six generations, and Lauren is the primary caretaker of the property. When she's not involved with school, she's plotting how best to use the land and what types of trees, food and animals she should acquire for the future. The land borders on a lake where blackberry and raspberry bushes grow wild. We spent some time between rain showers exploring the land and the lake and avoiding the cow patties. The weather was often crazy with gale-force winds, sporadic rain showers, and plenty of rainbows. I've seen more rainbows in this country in one month than I have in my whole life, mostly because rain and sun seem to frequently hang out together. All those postcards you've seen of Ireland with a giant sized rainbow over the rolling green farms are not just the stereotype, although I have yet to find the pot of gold (or even a box of Lucky Charms for that matter).
On Sunday, we drove 10 minutes north past fields of sheep and chickens to a bay on the coast. We had come to collect dinner. The tide was half a mile out, which gave us plenty of room to search. I knew what mussels looked like, but finding oysters and scallops proved to be a bit more challenging as they tend to blend in better with the sand and seaweed. Lauren showed me how to identify a native oyster and scallop while being careful to throw the smallest shells back to let them mature. All of the shellfish grow near the seabed and some attach themselves to seaweed, rocks, crabs, or whatever else they can find. Digging them up just requires a good pair of eyes and a willingness to stick your hand in cold water and muck. We started filling our bags with the biggest and least barnacle encrusted, seaweedy creatures we could find. I was quite proud of the giant rock oyster I found that was the size of my hand! My excitement was slowly replaced, however, by the realization that one of my Wellington boots was slowly leaking. We quickly finished filling our bags up with as much as we could carry and headed back home to admire (and eat) our work.
Raw, fresh salt water oysters and scallops are one my absolute favorite things. There's not much better than cracking open an oyster shell, drinking the salt water inside, and eating the smooth, slightly chewy oyster. Finding and collecting them myself was quite a treat. I was less familiar, however, with eating raw scallops. You know scallops are super fresh when the interior slime is still pulsating like an electric current when the shell is opened. Even after the little edible part was taken out of the shell, a few of them continued to do flips on the plate! We quickly dipped them in a tiny bit of soy sauce and gobbled them up before they managed to escape. They were absolutely delicious. Fantastic. They were much tastier than the mussels we cooked. After having worked hard to prepare them (you have to scrape off as much seaweed and barnacle as possible before preparing a sauce to steam them in), we found that in almost every shell tiny
pea crabs had crawled into the mussel flesh to mate leaving their hard bodies as a hidden crunchy surprises.
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Apart from adventures on the farm, life is good. I'm loving school. I'm cramming my brain full of scientific theory and philosophical debates and general craziness. Currently we're studying Evolutionary Psychology and looking at theories of the possible evolution of cognition (what our brains do) by a process of natural selection. A lot of what we're reading is in the genre of philosophy of science (a field I didn't know existed) and consists of philosophers arguing over the definition of certain scientific vocabulary and theory. It can be a bit complicated. Sometimes I hang on by a little thread, but most of the time it's pretty interesting. I can't believe that in the next few years I will be able to call myself a
researcher. A real, live researcher. What exactly I'll be researching will be determined in the next year or so. If you want an accessible, interesting account of some aspects of research in this field, look to Steven Pinker's books:
How the Mind Works;
The Blank Slate; or
The Stuff of Thought.
Otherwise, Belfast is pretty interesting/strange. I bought a bag of peat to burn in the wood burner to later discover that peat is fossilized animal/plant matter and burning it is like, in the words of Lauren, "eating tiny, rare, almost extinct hummingbirds for dinner." Maybe that's not exactly what she said (you can mentally erase the quotation marks), but I do feel a twinge of guilt as I watch the peat burn. But I bought a 70 lbs bag of it. I can't just shove it back in the earth. So. Burn peat, burn.